Most of us use sugar every single day without hesitation. Whether just for our breakfast coffee or our after dinner treat, it is a pantry staple. It lines grocery aisles and is every baker’s friend. Unfortunately, not all sugars are equal. This might make you think of high fructose corn syrup, but I’m not even touching that here. I’m talking about regular old sugar–choosing the most sustainable is an act of environmental and social justice. Check out this excerpt from The Conscious Kitchen on the ins and outs of the sugar world:
Sugar should be natural. Artificial sweeteners don’t belong in a conscious kitchen, which means we can happily avoid any discussions of safety and USDA approval here. When it comes to sugar, fair-trade and organic is a must. “Sugar has to be good, clean, and fair,” says Alice Waters. She urges people to watch the documentary The Price of Sugar for an in-depth look at why (ThePriceOfSugar.com – the trailer is on YouTube). “It just took my breath away,” Waters explains. “I guess I imagined herbicides and pesticides and all of that and unfortunate farming conditions, but I never imagined slavery.” Adding a teaspoon to your morning coffee is a political act.
At home, I use a variety of organic brown-colored sugars from our health food market, knowing full well that brown sugar sold in the United States is refined to white and has molasses added back in to turn it varying shades of brown. It’s a farce. Truly raw or unrefined sugar is illegal here, just as raw milk is in some states, to protect citizens from impurities and bacteria. The process of refining is done in various ways, and is mainly mechanical, not chemical, though some sugars are filtered through animal by-products (usually bones) and so aren’t vegetarian-friendly or friendly for people trying to avoid conventionally raised animals. Refining strips sugar of any useful nutrients it originally had. Brown carries a healthy halo on it, but let’s not delude ourselves: Any sugar sold in the United States, even if it is called, “raw,” has been heated and is at least somewhat refined. I don’t turn to sugar for nutrients in the first place, so I’m okay with that, but I don’t like the misleading labeling.
So, what should you buy?
Definitely seek out fair-trade, organic, and/or sustainably grown and as unprocessed as possible. Sucanat and brown less-refined sugars (like demerara, turbinado, and muscavado) are more real (for lack of a better word) than the soft sugar called “brown.” To avoid sugar that was filtered through bones, look for labels stating the product is suitable for vegetarians. Always avoid conventional table sugar–white or brown.
Of course, there are other natural options like honey, maple syrup, agave nectar, and molasses that are much more environmentally friendly. Try to buy honey and maple syrup at your farmers’ market, where it will be local and unprocessed. I use a fair amount of both and I’d be lying if I said otherwise!